Very attached to traditional Javanese in Indonesia, especially Java tribe. In the event of any particular parts of Java did not escape from their custom. Both the origin or origins Central Java traditional clothing, completeness anything in life (costumes). And how traditional wedding costumes Central Java.
Traditional clothing of Central Java
Types of clothing and accessories worn by the women of Java, particularly in the cultural environment of Yogyakarta and Surakarta, Central Java is the baju kebaya, bustier and fabrics tapih pinjung with stagen. Baju kebaya worn by the duchess and the common people well as everyday clothing and ceremonial clothing. At the ceremonial clothes as worn by a garwo palace for example, baju kebaya using a pin severally combined with fabric Sinjang or jarik batik, head hair bun (bun), and is equipped with jewelry worn as earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets as well as fan usually do not miss.
For everyday clothing is generally sufficient Javanese woman wearing a tank top paired with stagen and fabrics jarik. Kemben used to cover the breasts, underarms and back, because the tank top fabric is quite wide and long. While stagen wound on the abdomen to bind tapihan pinjung to be strong and not easily separated.
Today, kebaya is generally only used on certain days only, as in traditional ceremonies, for example. kebaya here is in the form of a long-sleeved blouse that is worn outside the long-patterned cloth or sleeve that covers the lower part of the body (from ankle to waist). Kebaya length varies, ranging from the size around the hip up to the size above the knee. Therefore, a Javanese woman recognizes two kinds of kebaya, namely short kebaya-sized to hips and long kebaya measuring up to my knees.
Short kebaya can be made of various types of cotton, whether innocently with one color such as red, white, yellow, green, blue, and so on and cotton flowering or embroidered. Currently, short kebaya can be made of silk, linen sunduri (brocade), nylon, striated or synthetic materials. Meanwhile, more use of long kebaya velvet, brocade, silk and nylon embroidered flowering. Among women in Java, usually baju kebaya they were given additional materials .Part rectangular in front that serves as a connector.
Kebaya worn cloth sinjang jarik / tapih where the front left made wiron (folding) wrapped from left to right. To cover stagen use of rainbow scarf tie-dye weaving brightly colored. Scarves should be used is made from batik, striated compatible or tie-dye cloth. In addition striated fabric, can also wear the gabardine fabric tartan with delicate color combinations as follows: dark green with black, purple with black, blue with black, yellow and black with dark red brick with black. Equipment glitter can be used as simple as earrings with a necklace and pendant compatible, rings, bracelets and a pair of hairpin on a bun.
Kebaya long usually used velvet, brocade, silk and nylon woven. Today, a long kebaya outfit for the wedding ceremony. And also commonly used by the bride, the Bali and Madura. Long kebaya is up to my knees, can also wear extra material in the front but not curved neck (collar). In general, long kebaya made of black velvet or dark red, decorated with gold ribbon on the edge of the fringe dress. Jarik batik cloth folded (wiron) is still required for these clothes, but usually without wearing a scarf. Bun decorated with garlands of jasmine and hairpin of gold. Meanwhile, the jewelry worn too simple, that a comb-shaped semicircle almost worn on the front of the head. Kebaya worn long as usual ceremonial clothes, makeup and hair without garlands of jasmine and hairpin.
About technique and how to create a very simple baju kebaya. Pieces and kebaya Java, which is also used in South Sumatra, Kalimantan coastal areas, islands of Sumbawa and Timor is actually similar to the blouse. This shirt is made from two pieces of pieces, namely a front and a rear piece again, and the two sleeves. The model can be combined with a piece of rectangular used as a connector between the two pieces of the interface.
In the body kebaya cut in such a way that does not require croup. It is intended to completely make up the body at the waist and breasts and slightly flared at the hips. Meanwhile, folds down the back and sides must be the same width and headed to the front with a slightly tapered. The curve of the neck with the front blouse. The curve should be wide enough so that it can be folded into the vuring then folded out to form a curved neck. All the pieces dapatdikerjakan with a sewing machine or hand sewn.
While the fashion among men, especially relatives of the palace are wearing shirts
beskap flowers or other floral motifs, the head wearing a headband (blankon), as well as the heart of fabrics, stagen to tie cloth side, a dagger and footwear (snacks). Clothing is called Java Complete, namely Java menswear complete with a dagger.
Although the art of fashion is doing well in the palace, does not mean in the fashion of ordinary people who do not have special. Clothing traditional folk commonly used by many farmers in the village. Clothing worn shorts are black, long-sleeved shirts, big belt, headband and wear gloves that afternoon. But at the time of the marriage ceremony, the bride's parents usually wear their belts and cloth jarik sindur. His clothes beskap or armed and on the head wear a headband.
Clothing colloquial
One of the most beautiful traditional clothes and most complete in Indonesia are in Surakarta, Central Java. Therefore, every kind of fashion shows certain stages and whom the application. In customary fashion, for example marriage, a woman and a man wearing a palace among several types of clothes, tailored to the stages of the ceremony, which midodareni, consent, and meet after meet ceremony. At the ceremony midodareni, the bride wearing a traditional Javanese clothes by color of the oil. Clothing of the oil consists of a long-sleeved blouse, and cloth stagen jarik with batik patterns. While the bridegroom wear fashion way Jawi Complete, consisting of shirt Stela, udeng, armed, belt buckle, fabric jarik, dagger and slippers.
When consent ceremony, the bride wear clothing that is baju kebaya and fabrics jarik, while the groom wore clothing basahan. Clothing basahan groom here consists of kuluk Matak plot, dodot wake tulak, stagen, complete with a belt buckle and cinde, white trousers, a dagger sheath ladrang and slippers.
Similarly, in Panggih ceremony the bride to wear this type of clothing that have been defined. The bride wears traditional clothing together, basahan. Clothing basahan was not wearing a shirt, but rather consists of semekan or strapless, dodot wake tulak or shawl, or scarf Sekar sampur cinde abrit and fabrics jarik sekar cinde red. Semekan or tank top made of batik cloth with a pattern of sockets reason green or blue base color with decorative yellow or white gold. Strapless dress here serves as a substitute and complementary to cover the breast. Cain dodot who uses batik style sockets reason length of approximately 4-5 meters, and a clothing staple in fashion basahan. Sekar cinde abrit shawl made of cloth red base color with black floral pattern and fabric jarik cinde Sekar abrit gloyar made of fabric, basic colors red flower-bedecked black and white. How to wear a fabric such as linen jarik but no folds (wiron). Similarly, the bride, pengatin men also wear traditional clothing basahan, such dodot wake tulak, consisting of kuluk Matak light blue, stagen, belt buckle, epek, dodot wake tulak, pants cinde sekar abrit, a dagger sheath ladrang, under Karis, slippers and jewelry necklace overextend.
In this Panggih ceremony, usually the bride and groom wedding outfit basahan with various jewelry. Jewelry which is used by the groom is stalling necklace, buckle / epek, rings, brooches and bloated. As for the bride, jewelry commonly used is cunduk mentul, teeter, tuft of hair, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches, earrings and the buckle or epek.
Unlike the earlier stages of the ceremony, the ceremony after Panggih, the bride wearing clothes kanigaran, which consists of baju kebaya, fabrics jarik, stagen and slippers. While the groom dress for the principality, which consists of kuluk Kanigoro, stagen, takwo shirt, belt buckle, fabric jarik, a dagger sheath ladrang and slippers.
For completeness, in the customary fashion of marriage, both bride and men usually makeup on the face and a bun. The goal is to make the bride look more beautiful and angun and groom more manly and handsome. For the groom, how meriasnya not such a complicated and rigorous as the bride to be makeup on the face from the face, eyes, eyebrows, cheeks and lips.
Clothing Java both everyday clothes and ceremonial dress very rich ornamentation that often have symbolic meaning behind it. Kind of decoration that is known in Surakarta and Yogyakarta is a fabric that motivated tematema geometric, swastika (such as stars and the sun), animals (eg, birds, snakes, buffaloes, dragons), plants (lotus, jasmine) and natural and human. Geometric motifs which are patterned batik fabric curls, helical, double loop and double corkscrew. Motif of lines cut the so-called ladder motif is a symbol of the ancestors were heading up the stairs of heaven. Even the most motive was known by the people of Surakarta is tumpal triangular motif called untu stinky, symbolizing fertility.
In special dresses for the marriage ceremony, also known as the batik motifs, such as fabric sindur and truntum used by parents of bride. While sido mukti cloth, fabric sido Mukti and Mulyo the bride outfit.
The function of clothes, was originally used as a tool to protect the body from cold or hot weather. Then the clothes are becoming more diverse functions, for example to close the genitals, as complementary elements of a ceremony that bears a certain value, as well as a means of meeting the needs of beauty.
In communities in Central Java, especially in Surakarta function of clothing is quite diverse, as in aristocratic society of clothing has a practical function, aesthetic, religious, social and symbolic. Kebaya fabrics such practical function is to maintain the warmth and physical health; aesthetic function, namely decorating the body to make it look more beautiful and attractive; social function that is learned to keep the honor of a woman that are not easily surrender her feminine manner tightly dressed and neat as possible, and wear stagen strong as possible that are not easily separated.